95 Acura integra questions?

I used to have a 1998 Honda CR-V that did the same thing  and the issue was the valves needed adjustment. Why did I mention the CR-V? Because the B20 in the CR-V is an Integra LS B18 engine with a slightly larger displacement...2.0 liters vs 1.8 liters in the Integra. Honda's non-VTEC engines use solid valves that need periodical adjustments. The VTEC models have self-adjusting hydraulic valves, so they should be relatively maintenance free. 

However, the valves have a tendency to tighten when they need adjustment  on these engines. Most vehicles that require valve adjustments get louder due to the valves getting looser. Not the Honda B18/B20 engine. They tighten, so the valvetrain actually gets quieter. This can lead to an expensive valve job  if not taken care of.  Honda recommends having them inspected/ serviced every 30K miles. Good luck.

You don't mention the cold idle speed. It should be around 1200 rpm with a manual.

Assuming the idle is too low, start by checking the ignition timing. In the third gen Integra the IAC is not used to control cold idle; it is all done by the Fast Idle Thermo Valve (FITV). There is no feedback as there is for the IAC, so the timing has to be just right. 2 degrees off makes a big difference in performance and behavior.

Just to make everything right, clean the FITV (under the throttle body - follow the little coolant hoses) and the IAC (back side of the TB). Both are cleaned by unbolting them and spraying throttle body cleaner into the ports.

Once you get all these things covered, see how it behaves. If the cold idle is not roughly as described above (it isn't going to be exact, just in the ballpark) replace the FITV. If the idle is okay but the engine still stalls when you try to go, check the spark. (Note - never generate a spark in this vehicle without somewhere for it to go; it will destroy the ignition coil in a fraction of a second. Guess how I know!) If the spark is orange and goes pop instead of mostly blue and has a sharp snap, replace the Ignition Control Module. Replacing the whole distributor is usually a better value because of the amount of distributor trouble in this vintage.

Why would you change the MAF sensor? id you have a MAF sensor code?

You need to use a scan tool to read the engine data to see if all the sensors are working with in spec. The coolant temperature sensor for the computer may be bad and that would keep the computer from enriching the fuel mixture during cold start ups.

Another thing to be aware of. All Honda motors have a common issue with the valves getting tight. They need to be adjusted every 60,000 miles!

Car is likely running lean when cold (starving for fuel) or ignition is weak. Get a "tune-up" first. Replace the plugs, wires, air filter and fuel filter. Check timing. Replace the thermostat. No fix, try replacing the Engine Coolant Temp sensor. Good luck.

This is a typical vacuum leak. When the car warms up, the heat makes everything expand and the leak doesn't fully close, but it reduces enough to make the car run better. Start replacing hoses that look cracked and putting clamps on hoses that might be loose.

It's 24 years old. It could be any number of things. The first thing you need to determine is if it is a spark, fuel or air problem. My first guess would be that the cold idle injector is faulty - if it even has one.