Need assistance diagnosing a GFCI problem.?

Turn off the power, pull out the GFCI.

Disconnect the black and white wire(s) that are screwed into the (top) two screws that should say (LOAD) on the back of the device next to them. Leave the two that say (LINE) and the ground wire attached and make sure the device is isolated from short circuiting and turn the circuit back on.

You can hold the device while its on only by the top and bottom metal bracket when you need to push the button, do not touch the line or load screws with anything. See if it stays on without a load. If it does not then the GFCI is bad and needs replaced (they only last 5 years on average, but fail sooner if they repeatedly get tripped by overcurrent)

If the GFCI stays on, then you have developed a short in the continuing circuit, which would be all of the currently dead outlets that used to be protected by the GFCI.

If the GFCI is bad, make sure you keep track of which wires are which so that you hook the new one up right.

If you have to troubleshoot the circuit, identify each outlet that should be on, logically follow a potential wire path from outlet to outlet to try and determine what order they go in and pick a spot in the middle of the line to pull out and disconnect half by pulling the wires off the device. (So that you can determine which half of the receptacles have the problem). Since it's a kitchen, you may also need to check breakfast nook, sunroom, or dining room outlets because they could be included on the circuit. Chances are they were powered before the GFCI since they don't need protection, so you should only have maybe 2 or 3 outlets to concern yourself with.

So in your case I would start by taking the cover off of each of the outlets involved, and inspect with a flashlight for a ground wire touching anything it shouldn't be, or signs of arcing.

If nothing is apparent, then pull out the outlets, and disconnect the wires. Trace the wires for continuity between each outlet to hopefully find the problem. If the wire is damaged in the wall, say from a picture nail on the other side of the wall... then you'll need to either locate the damage and repair, or run a new wire to replace it. (the second option is probably best to avoid drywall repair since you can likely run the new wire in the base cabinets just below the counter top)

I'm sure that was all excessive info, as you just need a new GFCI, but I'm bored and wanted to cover all bases.

Go buy another one and replace it. The GFI is a device that is sensitive and it is always looking for in disturbance in the voltage especially to a ground. If this switch has been giving you problems then you should replace it. you can have it tested and it will show good but the protection side of it is gone. Cheap fix and anytime you trip a gfi you should investigate the reason. The more times you trip it the less effective it becomes. Replace them and don't relay on old old circuit protectors. If electrical parts were recalled like cars and food then some old wiring systems would be gone. Federal Pacific breakers are by far the worst breaker I've worked around. They are dangerous because they were not designed for a safety. They were just a Single throw switch. I can weld with a F>P>

replace the unit, they do no longer look to be that high priced, black twine is the line or warm lead in AC wiring, white is the impartial, in many circumstances observed as a typical by using fact that is shared by 2 distinctive a lot on opposite legs of a a hundred and twenty/240 volt circuit. Be careful of solutions that don't look to make experience to you. in case you don't understand what you're doing from the solutions you have gained, call a qualified expert electrician.

sounds like somethings wet or somethings shorting it out obviously.if this a new circuit you miswired something. black to brass......incoming from the panelbox to LINE....................Lee