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1999 BMW 528I no start, engine will not crank?
Battery voltage is 13.01 volts with clean terminals, dash lights come on in run position but no change in crank position with no voltage drop. Remote starter test shows good starter with under 200 amp draw while cranking. All wires intact and firmly connected. suspect faulty ignition switch. Any BMW techs out there that can lend a hand? Mileage is 162,000 but well cared for.
With ignition in run position, jumpered contacts of starter with remote switch, engine cranks but no ignition, possible anti theft device failure?
no ckick heard when key is turned, no injection noid pulse or KV output to plugs
6 Answers
- brodLv 61 decade agoFavorite Answer
Turn on the key and then jump the starter. If it cranks and runs the engine then there is no problem with the DME/EWS (engine computer and anti-theft modules), and that you are right it is a bad ignition switch.
Another way is to monitor the starter solenoid switch for power when you turn on the key to start.
If there is none then the ignition switch is not supplying it because it is bad OR because there is a problem that prevents it from supplying it.
Sometimes jumping to conclusions or guessing what is wrong and then throwing parts at a problem car is OK. But oftentimes you get burned and spend both money and time uselessly if you do not confirm the cause of the problem.
Update your question if needed.
Addt'l. Comments based on Updates (EDIT):
Under the right microfilter assembly (which you remove) is the E-box which contains the DME, EGS and other electronic stuff.
Check the DME main relay. Check also the 5 DME fuses inside a black plastic box. If something is wrong then replace it. If both relay and fuses are ok then throw in an ignition switch.
The proper way to diagnose (of course) is to connect the car to a BMW GT1 diagnostic machine and to see if the key is being recognized, if the EWS/DME combo is releasing the starter, and if there are relevant faults. But this is not always possible.
- 1 decade ago
before going too crazy, try getting the customer's spare key and trying that. A faulty key can cause this issue. I think everybody else covered the other grounds if that doesn't help. The EWS are known to go bad as well. However it has to be coded to vehicle to work. so swapping it out with another car will probably not help you.
- 1 decade ago
Dear Richard,
I strongly suspect the ignition switch. On reading your question I can clearly see that you know about your car very much.Good..
is your ecu is working well. Like do you get any messages on the dash when something fails like headlamp,coolant temp etc.
regards,
Nataraj
Bahrain
- Anonymous5 years ago
This is a challenging question, and one that has intrigued me for a long time.
